I set the .028" compressed GM composition gaskets, put orange silicone on all the cleaned bolts before torquing in steps and helical pattern. The heads got a good cleaning with compressed air again, and the deck surface got a quick wipe down with lacquer thinner. Those gaskets are supposed to go on dry.



My camera makes the orange paint look iridescent, weird, huh?
Next, I doped up all the lifter faces with gray moly paste and set them up on their ends so I could rub the sides with zinc-treated oil and drop them in. Pushrods next, which had been soaking in oil, and each tip got a dab of moly as well.


I am using GM stamped self-aligning rocker arms (1.5 ratio). They are used, but looked pretty good. I set them in place with moly on the valve mating surface and on the pushrod dimple too. The grooved pivot balls got moly'd up and set on, then I tightened them all to where the nut was flush with the tip of the rocker stud.



After reading about setting valve lash, and not having done it before, I took what I thought to be the best approach. In 45 degree increments from TDC #1, there is a sequence for tightening them that "guarantees" that each of them is on the base circle of the lobe, and the engine only needs to be spun around 2 times. That makes sense, since there are sixteen 45 degree increments 360 degrees. This was the suggested method in my "how to rebuild chevy small block" book from SA or Vizard or whatever. It said 1/4 to 1/2 turn past zero lash is best. The GM service manual for my car says that setting lash is done in 2 steps, 8 valves on TDC #1, and the other 8 valves on TDC #6, and that the valves should be turned 1 full turn past zero lash. A few people have told me that they still wind up with clatter when done this way, and that the one at a time following the firing order method is the best way.
Anyways, after I set all the valves, put about 4 qts oil and a pint bottle of break-in additive, plugged in the oil pressure gauge and primed it up with the tool. I got oil out of all the pushrods.
Next, I applied silicone to the intake surface of the heads, and laid the gaskets on with the heat crossover restrictors installed, and put more orange silicone on the top side of the gaskets. I use Permatex black for the front and rear of the intake instead of the rubber gaskets. A good bead of that, and I set the intake on perfectly, so all the bolt holes lined up. I used a criss-cross pattern for the 4 bolts around the plenum of the intake, then criss-crossed outwards towards the front and rear of the manifold. I primed again once the intake was tight with the priming tool.
After jerking around with the distributor, trying to get it to point to # 1 for better than 1/2 hour, I just left it where it was. It is pointing at #5 or so. I just need to remember where the rotor is pointing and hook up #1 wire to there, and wire accordingly.

That's where I'm at now.

